What to Look For at Your Timber Frame Inspection — The Complete Homeowner's Guide

What "Frame Stage" Actually Means

Frame stage is the inspection window after the wall frames and roof trusses are up and braced, but BEFORE:

• Wall sheeting goes on
• Cladding is installed
• Sarking is wrapped
• Roof battens and sheets are laid
• Insulation is installed

At this window you can see every stud, every plate connection, every brace, every tie-down, every truss connector. Everything. This is your one chance to catch defects that will otherwise be hidden by cladding for the life of your home.

The frame is designed to AS 1684 — Residential Timber-Framed Construction. Four parts:

• AS 1684.1 — Design criteria
• AS 1684.2 — Non-cyclonic areas (wind classes N1–N4) — this is what applies to most South East Queensland
• AS 1684.3 — Cyclonic areas (wind classes C1–C4) — coastal north Queensland
• AS 1684.4 — Simplified — non-cyclonic areas

Every check on this list traces back to a clause in AS 1684, the QBCC Standards & Tolerances Guide, or your engineer's structural drawings.

Wind Classification — The Foundation Fact

Everything about your frame — stud size, stud spacing, brace type and count, tie-down connectors, roof anchor spec — depends on your wind classification.

Wind classes in AS 4055: - N1, N2 — light suburban - N3 — typical outer suburban Queensland - N4 — higher wind rural - N5, N6 — very high wind non-cyclonic (rare in residential) - C1–C4 — cyclonic (north Queensland)

Most SEQ new home builds are N2 or N3. Your engineer's frame plans state the classification on the title block. Confirm this matches your wind zone (check with your surveyor or engineer). An N2 frame built in an N3 zone is under-specified and non-compliant.

The 17-Category Framework I Use on Every Frame Inspection

1. Bottom Plate + Slab Connection (Tie-Down System)

The bottom plate is the bit of timber that sits on your slab. Everything above depends on it staying put in a wind event.

Traditional tie-down (still common): - M12 threaded rods, cast into slab OR set with chemical anchor (Ramset ChemSet or equivalent) — spacing per engineer's tie-down schedule (there is no universal spacing; it varies with wind class, wall load, roof mass, and building geometry) - Nuts and washers correctly tensioned per engineer's spec (finger tight is NOT tight enough — a spanner is required) - Correct washer type and size per the connector manufacturer's data sheet (varies)

Proprietary hold-down systems (increasingly common): - Proprietary hold-down brackets (Pryda Hold Down Bracket, MiTek TieDown Strap, and similar) are becoming standard alternatives to M12 rods at the bottom plate to slab connection - These brackets are screwed or nailed to the stud and bolted to the slab - Installed per manufacturer's published spec sheet — cross-check against your engineer's schedule - Advantages: faster install, no drilling, no chemical anchor cure time, cleaner install - Verification: the manufacturer's spec sheet must be on site and the connector count/spacing must match the engineer's schedule

What to look for: - Every tie-down location on the engineer's schedule has a bolt or bracket installed - No missing tie-downs at wall junctions or corners (highest wind loads) - No tie-downs where the rod has been cut short or the bracket damaged - Chemical-set rods have been cured minimum 24 hours before load applied - Nuts and washers on M12 rods actually tightened

Red flag: ANY missing tie-down bolt or bracket at the position specified in the engineer's schedule. Under wind load, uplift is concentrated at these points — a missing one puts extra load on adjacent connections that weren't designed for it.

2. Stud Grade + Sizes

Not all timber is equal. The stud size and grade must match the engineer's spec.

What to look for: - Studs at the correct dimensions (typically 90×35mm or 90×45mm for load-bearing walls; 70×35mm or 70×45mm for non-load-bearing) - Timber grade stamp visible on studs — MGP10, MGP12, MGP15 are the machine-graded pine grades used in residential - Grade and size matches the engineer's frame plan - No badly bowed or twisted studs (a stud with a crown greater than 5mm over 2400mm should be replaced) - No excessively knotty timber at critical locations - No cracked or split studs at end-nail locations - Kiln-dried timber (not green — green timber shrinks and causes gaps between framing and cladding)

Red flag: Non-graded timber used anywhere. Every stud must carry a visible grade stamp (MGP10, MGP12, MGP15, F5, F7). No stamp = no compliance.

3. Stud Spacing

Stud spacing is set by AS 1684 based on wall height, wind class, and cladding weight.

Common residential stud spacing: - 600mm centres: most common for internal and external walls in low-mid wind areas (N1, N2) with lightweight cladding - 450mm centres: required for heavier cladding (brick veneer, weatherboard on high walls) or higher wind classes (N3+) - 300mm centres: required at high load-bearing walls or under heavy point loads (rare in residential)

What to look for: - Stud centres consistent and match engineer's frame plan - No gaps larger than the specified spacing (300mm, 450mm, or 600mm) - Extra studs at load points (under lintels, at corners, at door and window jambs) - Trimmer studs on both sides of every opening - Double studs at all external corners

Red flag: Studs at 600mm centres when the plan specifies 450mm. Common shortcut — costs you nothing to catch, expensive to rectify after linings.

4. Top Plate + Head Plate

The top plate and head plate carry the load from the roof down into the studs.

What to look for: - Load-bearing walls: double top plate (two 90×35mm plates, one on top of the other) — required per AS 1684 for load-bearing walls - Non-load-bearing walls: single top plate acceptable - Top plates lap at corners (not butted end-to-end at a corner — creates weak joint) - Straps or nailing plates at all top plate joins - No cuts or notches in the top plate at truss bearing points - Top plate straight and level (tolerance per QBCC S&T: max 4mm under a 2m straight-edge for wall out-of-plumb)

Red flag: Single top plate on a wall carrying roof trusses. This is a load-bearing wall and needs a double top plate.

5. Stud-to-Plate Connections (Stud-Lok vs Metal Straps)

Every stud must be connected to the top and bottom plates. The connector type matters.

Traditional method: - Metal straps (framing anchors, triple grips, cyclone ties) nailed to the stud and plate with the correct nail size and count per AS 1684 Table 8.18

Modern method (increasingly common): - MiTek Stud-Lok and Stud-Lok XTRA — proprietary screws that drive through the plate into the stud, creating a positive fixing in seconds - Stud-Lok is permitted in lieu of metal straps per AS 1684.2 & .3 Table 8.18 and AS 1684.4 Table 8.3 - Faster than straps, fewer nails, cleaner install - Common sizes: Stud-Lok for single top plate, Stud-Lok XTRA for double top plate - Must be installed to full depth (screw head flush or slightly countersunk into plate) - Installer's manufacturer datasheet must be on site — the spec must match the wind class

What to look for: - Every stud has the specified connection at both top and bottom plates - If metal straps: correct straps, correct nail count, nails fully driven (not overdriven — that damages the strap and reduces capacity) - If Stud-Lok: correct model, driven to full depth, one at each end of every stud - Manufacturer's spec sheet on site and matching the engineer's requirement

Red flag: Missing connectors on any stud, OR Stud-Lok screws that are only partially driven (the shear capacity depends on full engagement).

6. Noggings (Dwangs)

Noggings are the short horizontal blocks between studs. They stiffen the wall against racking (twisting under load) and provide a nailing point for wall linings.

AS 1684 requirements: - Noggings required at maximum 1350mm vertical centres in load-bearing walls - Walls over 2700mm high require a DOUBLE row of noggings (two rows at ~1350mm centres) - Nogging thickness minimum 25mm, and minimum 25mm less than the depth of the stud (for a 90mm deep stud, minimum 65mm on-flat, or full 90mm on-edge) - Extra noggings at heights where wall linings need fixing (typically at plasterboard sheet joints — 1200mm from floor) - Noggings staggered between adjacent stud bays (not all at same height across the wall — helps rigidity)

What to look for: - Nogging at approximately 1200-1350mm above bottom plate in every stud bay - Additional noggings where wall cabinets, benchtops, or handrails will be fixed later - Extra noggings at wet area walls where mixers and shower heads will penetrate - Noggings full-depth (same section as studs — not cut down) - Nails at each end into the stud

Red flag: No noggings at all in an external wall, OR a single row of noggings on a wall over 2700mm high (should be a double row).

7. Bracing — Types + Placement

Bracing stops your walls from folding sideways in a wind event. AS 1684 sets minimum bracing capacity for each wall and roof plane.

Common bracing types in residential frames: - Ply sheet bracing — structural plywood (usually 7mm) nailed to studs and plates in a specific pattern - Speed brace / angle brace — metal diagonal straps let into the studs - Wall brace trusses — engineered timber trusses used as bracing elements - Diagonal timber bracing — traditional timber diagonals let into studs (less common in modern frames)

What to look for: - Bracing type matches the engineer's bracing plan (which panel and which method for each wall) - Bracing capacity is calculated in bracing units (kN) per AS 1684.2 Table 8.1 — the plan tells you which walls carry how many units; there is no simple "brace every X metres" rule - Speed brace / angle brace at correct angle: 45° to 60° from horizontal, length 1800mm to 2700mm (AS 1684.2) - Ply bracing sheet joints on stud centres (not floating in the middle of a bay) - Bracing continuous top to bottom — not broken by openings

Red flag: External wall with no bracing at all, OR bracing that only covers part of the wall height. Common shortcut — check every external wall against the bracing plan.

8. Bracing — Nail Patterns (This Is Where Most Defects Are)

The nail pattern on bracing panels is what actually holds it together. Get it wrong and the panel is only ~50% of its rated capacity.

Ply sheet bracing nailing (AS 1684.2 Table 8.18): - Nails at outer edges of the sheet: maximum 150mm centres - Nails at central studs (studs in the middle of the sheet): maximum 300mm centres - Nails driven flush — NOT overdriven (a nail that has broken through the ply face is at reduced capacity) - Nails NOT underdriven (a nail that stands proud won't shear correctly) - Nail size and type per the engineer's spec (nail schedule varies by ply thickness and wind class — always check the spec, don't assume)

Speed brace nailing: - Nails through every hole in the brace (not just some) - Nails driven flush and fully seated - Speed brace properly let-in to studs at each crossing

What to look for: - Overdriven nails (heads punched through the ply surface — visible dark ring around the nail head) - Underdriven nails (heads standing proud — you can catch a fingernail under them) - Nails missed at required positions (edge nailing at 150mm centres — count them) - Wrong nail type (bright nails instead of galvanised in exposed positions) - Nails at studs that don't exist (nail into thin air — happens when studs are mispositioned)

Red flag: Any bracing panel where 5+ nails are overdriven, underdriven, or missing. That panel has probably lost 30-50% of its rated capacity.

9. Openings — Lintels + Jamb Studs

Every door and window opening needs proper support to carry the load above it.

What to look for: - Lintel above every opening — size per engineer's schedule (varies by opening width and wall load) - Lintel bearing on trimmer studs at both ends (minimum 50mm bearing typical) - Jamb stud at each side of opening — sized per engineer's spec - Trimmer studs full height from bottom plate to lintel underside - Double jamb studs at wider openings and at load-bearing walls - Lintel not notched or cut on site - Nailed connection between lintel and trimmer stud (framing anchor typical)

Red flag: Openings with no visible lintel, or a lintel that's obviously undersized for the span. Every opening wider than 900mm needs an engineered lintel.

10. Roof Trusses — Placement + Spacing

Prefabricated roof trusses arrive on a truck and get lifted onto the top plates.

What to look for: - Trusses at correct centres per truss manufacturer's layout drawing (commonly 600mm or 900mm in residential — depends on the truss design, roof mass, and roof span) - No trusses spaced wider than the spec (a common defect after damage repair) - Each truss identifiable by its number (matches truss layout drawing) - Girder trusses (extra strong trusses at load transfer points) correctly identified and installed at the specified locations - Truss bearing on top plate as specified by the truss designer (varies by truss depth and load) - Trusses straight and plumb — no leaning or twisting - No damage to truss members (broken chord, split web, hammer marks) - Truss layout drawing on site and matches what's built

Red flag: Trusses at wider centres than the layout specifies, OR a truss that's been cut on site to fit a service run. Site-cut trusses require truss designer sign-off before you accept the frame.

11. Roof Truss Tie-Downs

Trusses lift in wind. Tie-downs stop that.

What to look for: - Every truss has a tie-down connector to the top plate — cyclone tie, triple grip, or Pryda Hold Down Bracket - Connector type matches the engineer's tie-down schedule for the wind class - Full nail count per the connector manufacturer's data sheet — every specified hole nailed (not just some). Nail count varies significantly by connector type, so verify against the specific product data sheet on site. - Nails driven fully — not overdriven - Connector correctly positioned (both flanges nailed — not just one side) - No gap between connector and timber (that's a shim job or defective connector)

Red flag: Any truss without a visible tie-down connector at either bearing point. Roof uplift in a windstorm concentrates at unrestrained trusses first.

12. Wet Area Frame Preparation

Bathrooms and laundries and kitchens need extra prep in the frame for waterproofing and fixings.

What to look for: - Extra noggings behind mixers, shower rails, taps, towel rails (for later fixing points) - Frame straight and plumb in wet areas (waterproofing membrane needs a flat substrate) - No unsealed penetrations in wet area walls (each will need to be flashed later) - Additional trimmers around bath and shower recesses - Correct height set-out for towel rails, mixer positions (typically 900mm-1200mm above finished floor) - Frame around shower niche or shelf built to size and squared

Red flag: Wet area walls with visibly bowed or twisted studs. The waterproofing membrane will crack on any hard bow point.

13. Frame Level + Plumb (QBCC Tolerances)

The frame must be built within tolerance. Otherwise linings never sit right and doors bind.

QBCC Standards & Tolerances Guide (walls and frames): - Wall out-of-plumb: posts and wall frames are defective if they deviate from vertical by more than 4mm within any 2m height AND that deviation compromises structural adequacy, allows water penetration, or compromises health and safety - Wall out-of-straight (bow): frames are defective if they deviate from plane by more than 4mm in any 2m length (within 12 months of completion) - Pre-plasterboard substrate: where the frame will receive plasterboard, when a 1.8m straight-edge is placed over the wall frame the deviation must not exceed 4mm over 90% of the area and must not exceed 5mm over the remaining 10% - Floor levels (finished floor level): max 10mm in any room, max 12mm over any 3m length, max 4mm under a 2m straight-edge

What to look for: - Every external wall spot-checked with a spirit level or 2m straight-edge - Corners plumb — check with a plumb bob or laser - No visible waviness along any wall face - Top plate level checked with dumpy or laser - Door and window head positions consistent height

Red flag: Wall out-of-plumb greater than 4mm over 2m height AND compromises structure/water/safety = QBCC defect. Frame bow greater than 4mm over 2m length within 12 months = QBCC defect. Pre-plasterboard substrate failing the 1.8m straight-edge test = defect.

14. Frame Straightness (Studs Bowed or Crowned)

Timber moves. Studs bow. The QBCC S&T Guide doesn't set a specific per-stud bow tolerance — it defers to the finished-frame straightness tests in Category 13 (4mm/2m bow, plus the 1.8m straight-edge test at plasterboard substrates). AS 4785 sets grading tolerances at the point of manufacture for softwood; anything bowed on site should be assessed against the FINISHED-FRAME requirement.

What to look for: - Frame overall passes the QBCC 4mm/2m bow test (from Category 13) - Frame overall passes the pre-plasterboard 1.8m straight-edge test - Individual studs that clearly bow more than surrounding studs — likely to fail the finished-frame test after linings - Bowed studs identified and rejected before linings go on - Twisted studs at critical locations (corners, jambs) replaced - If studs have been "sprung" straight with temporary bracing before nogging: verify the frame passes the QBCC test before bracing is removed

Red flag: Any stud with visible bow that would push the finished frame past 4mm/2m OR fail the 1.8m plasterboard substrate test.

15. Bracing at Openings (Hinge Points)

Large openings (garage doors, sliding doors, big picture windows) are the weak points where the frame can hinge in a wind event.

What to look for: - Diagonal bracing or K-bracing at large openings per engineer's spec - Portal frames at garage door openings (engineered steel or LVL frames handling the moment loads) - Additional tie-downs at portal frame legs - No skimping on tie-downs at the sides of large openings — this is where wind uplift concentrates

Red flag: A garage door opening with no portal frame and no additional bracing. This is the single most common source of catastrophic wind damage in QLD homes.

16. Temporary Bracing (During Construction)

AS 1684.2 & .3 REQUIRE temporary bracing during construction. Yes, temporary. This is a legal requirement, not optional.

What to look for: - Temporary diagonal bracing on all external wall corners - Temporary bracing between roof trusses (usually timber battens nailed diagonally) - Bracing left in place until permanent bracing (ply sheets, cladding) is installed - Site not left open and unbraced overnight or over the weekend

Red flag: A frame with roof trusses installed but no temporary truss bracing. The whole roof can domino in one gust before Monday.

17. Documentation On Site

If the paperwork isn't there, nothing else is right.

Must be on site: 1. Engineer's structural drawings — current revision, all sheets (frame plan, bracing plan, tie-down schedule) 2. Truss layout drawing from truss manufacturer — shows every truss, its ID, position, tie-down requirement 3. Manufacturer's specification sheets for any proprietary connectors used (Stud-Lok, hold-down brackets, cyclone ties) 4. Wind classification certificate confirming the design wind class 5. Timber grade and treatment certificates for structural framing timber 6. Termite management sign-off (post-pour — should already be complete) 7. Working drawings — architectural, electrical and plumbing, so trades can see what's coming

Red flag: Any missing document. Especially the truss layout — that's your only way to verify each truss is where it should be with the tie-down it needs.

The 30 Red Flags — If You See ANY of These, Call an Inspector Immediately

If any of these are present at frame stage, book an independent inspection immediately:

1. Any missing tie-down bolt or bracket at engineer's specified position 2. M12 rods finger-tight (not tensioned to engineer's spec) 3. Chemical-set rods loaded before manufacturer's cure time 4. Non-graded timber (no MGP or F-grade stamp visible) 5. Stud spacing wider than engineer's plan specifies 6. Single top plate on a load-bearing wall 7. Top plate butt-joined at a corner (not lapped) 8. Missing stud-to-plate connectors (no strap AND no Stud-Lok) 9. Stud-Lok screws only partially driven 10. Overdriven bracing nails (head punched through ply surface) 11. Underdriven bracing nails (heads standing proud, catchable with a fingernail) 12. Bracing nails missed at required positions 13. External wall with no bracing when bracing units are specified 14. Ply bracing sheet joints floating in a bay (not on a stud) 15. No lintel above an opening over 900mm wide 16. Undersized lintel for the span 17. Trusses at wider centres than truss layout specifies 18. Site-cut truss without designer sign-off 19. Truss missing a tie-down at either bearing 20. Any connector with fewer nails than manufacturer's data sheet spec 21. Nogging spacing greater than 1350mm vertical 22. Single row of noggings on wall over 2700mm high (should be double row) 23. Wall out-of-plumb greater than 4mm over 2m height AND compromises structure/water/safety (QBCC) 24. Frame bow greater than 4mm in any 2m length (QBCC) 25. Pre-plasterboard substrate failing 1.8m straight-edge test (over 4mm across 90%, or over 5mm across 10%) 26. Twisted stud at a corner or jamb 27. Garage door opening with no portal frame or engineered bracing 28. No temporary bracing on external corners 29. Roof trusses with no temporary truss bracing between them 30. Engineer's frame plan / bracing plan / tie-down schedule / truss layout not on site

Any 3+ = call an inspector. Any 10+ = don't sign the frame-stage progress claim until fixed.

When to Book a Professional Inspection

I've just given you my complete checklist. You could try to do this yourself. Some homeowners can.

But here's the reality of what a professional inspector brings to a frame inspection:

• Ability to count bracing nails against AS 1684.2 Table 8.18 — this is the single most-defected item and the hardest to spot for a homeowner
• Verification of tie-down connectors against the engineer's schedule — cross-checking every connector type and count against the specified schedule takes 30-45 minutes with the plans
• Independence — I'm not your builder's mate. I won't wave through under-driven nails because "it's mostly OK"
• Independent report with photos — printed evidence you can use to withhold progress payment lawfully or to lodge a QBCC dispute
• QBCC-licensed authority — my report carries weight
• Same-day delivery — you get the written report before you leave site
• Free 15-minute post-report call — I walk your builder or engineer through the report to resolve issues fast

When to book: as soon as the frame and roof trusses are up and braced, but BEFORE sheeting starts. Usually 3-7 days after roof trusses are craned on.

VG Inspect Frame Stage Pricing

• Standard home up to 220m²: $550 inc GST — same-day report
• Larger homes: custom quote — call 07 3180 8041
• Available: Monday–Friday across South East Queensland (Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast, Ipswich, Moreton Bay, Logan, Redlands, Scenic Rim)

Book your frame inspection: Call 07 3180 8041 or book online.

Where This Inspection Sits in Your Build

Independent stage inspections work best as a sequence — each one checks work that the next stage covers up for good. Here's the full pathway for a typical Queensland new-home build, and where the timber frame inspection fits:

1. Pre-Pour Slab Inspection — before the concrete truck arrives 2. Post-Pour Slab Inspection — after the slab is poured and stripped 3. Frame Inspection — Timber Frame (you're reading this now) or Steel Frame, depending on how your home is built 4. Pre-Plaster (Lockup) Inspection — before the plasterboard hides the services 5. Practical Completion (PCI) Inspection — before you release your final payment

Building with steel instead? Read the Steel Frame Inspection checklist — same stage of the build, different standards (the NASH Standard / AS/NZS 4600 rather than AS 1684).

Previous: ← Post-Pour Slab Inspection — Next: Pre-Plaster (Lockup) Inspection →

Booking the whole sequence with one independent inspector means every stage is checked against the last. Book your inspection or call 07 3180 8041.

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This checklist is general educational information based on AS 1684, AS 4055, AS 4440, and the QBCC Standards & Tolerances Guide. Your specific site may have engineered features, wind classification, or bracing requirements that fall outside this general framework. Your engineer's site-specific structural drawings and truss layout drawings are the primary references for your build. This guide is not a substitute for a licensed inspection or engineering advice.